Before visiting Berlin became a modern pilgrimage for artists and gadabouts, especially for gays in the burbs of Schöneberg, Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain, and Prenzlauerberg, there was
Martin von Ostrowski, fresh-faced from Stuttgart and getting his doctorate on the "Monumental Fountains in German 1813-1871." That was 1981. Thirty years later, a painter and performance artist, he?s still inspired by the capital's transgressive images and visual bounty, channeling it all into guided tours that meld contemporary art and gay life. A point-by-point preview, below.