Cobblestones, castles, and culture: Your LGBTQ+ guide to Edinburgh

There are certain cities that feel like they find you, not the other way around. Edinburgh was one of those places for me—a city where, without even trying, I felt entirely in sync, like I'd shown up exactly when and where I was meant to be. More than once, wandering its storybook streets and gazing up at those jaw-dropping spires and neoclassical facades, I overheard fellow visitors (often in unmistakable American accents) saying, “I still can't believe this is real.”

And to be honest, I shared their disbelief.

With a population of just over 514,000, it has all the cultural gravitas of a capital, but its manageable size means you’re never far from a quiet café or a sweeping parkland view. It’s also the greenest city in the UK, with nearly half its landscape dedicated to public parks and open spaces – perfect for catching your breath after climbing one of its many hills! And if you’re into haunted history, you’ll be happy to know Edinburgh ranks among the most haunted cities in the world, too!

Beyond the cobbled streets and gothic skyline, Edinburgh – and Scotland as a whole – has firmly established itself as one of the most LGBTQ-friendly destinations worldwide. According to a recent census, nearly 184,000 people in Scotland identify as part of the LGBTQ+ community, including over 19,000 trans or non-binary individuals. The country has made incredible strides over the years, from enacting legal gender recognition in 2004 to legalizing marriage equality in 2014. In 2021, Scotland became the first nation worldwide to embed LGBTQ-inclusive education across all school subjects, ensuring the next generation grows up with inclusion at its core. It’s also one more reason why the future here feels bright and why Edinburgh keeps becoming even more welcoming for its residents and every traveler who passes through.

Getting there

Edinburgh is refreshingly easy to reach, whether you're flying in from the US or making your way across Europe. Direct flights from major American cities like New York, Boston, Chicago, and Atlanta are readily available, with airlines such as Delta and British Airways offering non-stop service year-round. Seasonal routes like American Airlines’ Philadelphia to Edinburgh (May to October) and JetBlue’s new Boston to Edinburgh service (May to September) make getting there even easier.

Across Europe, you’ll find plenty of convenient options, too, as Edinburgh is well-connected to major hubs like Amsterdam, Paris, Frankfurt, and Dublin. Once you land, it's a breeze to get into the city – Edinburgh Airport (EDI) is only 30 minutes away by tram or taxi. And if you're already exploring England, adding Edinburgh to your itinerary couldn't be simpler: the high-speed train from London gets you there in just over four hours. It's the perfect chance to tick another iconic city (and country!) off your list!

Where to stay: Virgin Hotels Edinburgh

When Sir Richard Branson puts his name on something, you know it won’t be ordinary – and Virgin Hotels Edinburgh is no exception. Housed in the beautifully restored India Buildings in Edinburgh’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this 5-star property seamlessly blends heritage charm with that signature Virgin flair. Perched at the top of multicolored Victoria Street, it’s perfectly positioned to wander to landmarks like Edinburgh Castle, soak in the winding alleyways, or snap postcard-worthy shots at every turn. Inside, the 222 rooms – which the Virgin brand calls chambers – are sleek and airy, all soft tones punctuated by Virgin’s signature pop of red, offering flexible spaces whether you’re here to work, relax, or crash after a night out.

But the hotel’s eclectic vibe isn’t confined to its rooms. Foodies will find themselves spoiled across multiple venues. Commons Club Restaurant dishes up an authentic taste of Scotland while its adjacent bar keeps the cocktails creative and conversations flowing. Evenings at Eve are all about laid-back Italian dining paired with a standout traditional Scottish breakfast in the morning (great vegan options available, too!). The staff are friendly and attentive, rocking chic Scottish-inspired uniforms, and always happy to share insider tips on the city. For a quieter moment, the Oculus Lounge, with its restored rotunda and a flood of natural light, is the perfect spot to cozy up and unwind or enjoy afternoon tea on weekends. And if you need a little recharge, every chamber comes stocked with a SMEG fridge for late-night snacks and a yoga mat ready for your inner-Braveheart... I mean, Warrior pose. There’s also a 24-hour fitness suite on level 3 and a stunning rooftop terrace on level 7, open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., offering incredible city views.

Where to stay: Fingal

Docked in Leith, Edinburgh’s historic port district, Fingal is a five-star floating hotel that’s both nautical and more than nice. Once a working ship for the Northern Lighthouse Board, she’s been reimagined as a luxurious escape with just 22 meticulously designed cabins. Think rich heritage fabrics by Scottish designer Araminta Campbell, brass taps, Davy lamps, underfloor heating, and headboards etched with map contours – perfect for tracing your next adventure before drifting off on their comfortable beds. Each room comes stocked with fluffy robes and slippers, cruelty-free Noble Isle toiletries, a smart TV, and a mini fridge, making it as comfortable as any boutique hotel on land – with just the right amount of maritime flair. Whether you’re staying in a classic cabin, stretching out in a duplex suite, or treating yourself to the Skerryvore Suite (with its private deck and separate dining area), Fingal has a way of seducing even the cruise skeptics. For cruise-curious travelers who claim, “I don’t think I’d like a cruise,” this is the perfect way to dip your toes into the nautical lifestyle – without ever leaving port.

Afternoon tea here isn’t just an indulgence – it’s a ritual worth savoring. Served under a glittering ceiling in The Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar, it's a white-glove affair with savory and sweet treats that look too pretty to eat – though you absolutely should. Vegan and allergy-friendly options are available with advance notice, and the staff, dressed in crisp nautical uniforms, strike that rare balance between polished and personable.

The cocktail menu deserves its own spotlight, featuring seafaring spins on the classics: the Shipwreck, the Lighthouse, and my personal favorite – the Pole Star martini. Each is crafted with the kind of attention to detail that makes lingering in the bar feel like time well spent. As the day winds down, the restaurant slips into a warm, jazzy mood perfect for a slow dinner, with a seasonal menu that’s earned its two AA Rosettes. Whether you're visiting for a romantic weekend or a solo escape, Fingal offers a stay as memorable as it is uniquely Edinburgh.

Where to eat and drink: Howies

With locations on Victoria Street – one of the most photographed streets in Europe – and at Waterloo Place near Calton Hill, Howies is a local favorite for good reason. This independent, family-run spot serves up seasonal Scottish dishes in a relaxed, welcoming setting with exposed stone walls, wooden floors, and delightful local art. The menu offers something for everyone, from vegans to meat lovers alike. Their plant-based haggis (a mix of lentils, beans, nuts, and spices) with neeps, tatties, and chive cream sauce is a standout, while the traditional version is equally as popular. There’s also a daily casserole and fresh catch of the day, making it the kind of place where the menu always offers something new. Whisky fans will appreciate the carefully curated flights featuring some of Scotland’s finest drams. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Howies is almost always busy, so booking ahead is highly recommended.

Where to eat and drink: Heron

Perched along the port of Leith with softly lit interiors and romantic river views, Heron is a modern Scottish fine dining gem that's somehow both elevated and entirely unpretentious. Run by chef Sam Yorke – who, at just 24, became Scotland’s youngest-ever Michelin-recognized chef last year – the restaurant leans into a farm-to-table ethos with a menu that shifts with the seasons and bursts with thoughtful, unexpected flavor pairings. Guests can choose between a la carte or multi-course tasting menus (including vegetarian, vegan, pescatarian, and gluten-free options) with beautifully curated wine pairings. I opted for the vegan tasting menu, and I'd fly back to Scotland tomorrow for the onion broth alone. The staff were a joy – warm, attentive, and never overbearing – and the ambiance feels effortlessly stylish, not stuffy. Reservations are essential. Heron is one of Edinburgh's toughest tables to snag, but it lives up to the hype. They close at 9 p.m. and are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan accordingly. Their cocktails are also worth noting, with their gimlet being a standout. And while I skipped it, my Baileys-loving Irish mother swears that Arran's Gold, Scotland's take on Baileys, is even better, so if you’re in the mood for something creamy, it comes highly recommended.

Where to eat and drink: Plant-Powered Posse

While haggis may still dominate Scotland’s culinary folklore, Edinburgh’s vegan dining scene is rewriting the script. During my visit, each evening outdid the last, proving that plant-based dining here isn’t just an option; it’s a highlight. Holy Cow stands out for its comforting, flavor-packed vegan burgers (the smoked tofu with mango chutney is a must). Open daily from noon to 10 p.m. (10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends), with two city locations and a menu that changes seasonally, it strikes the perfect balance of cozy and creative.

Then there’s Paradise Palms, a neon-lit fever dream of a bar-meets-diner-meets-record-label. It’s bold, a little chaotic, and downright brilliant, serving up BBQ jackfruit, tofu banh mi, and cocktails that lean tiki and unapologetically strong. The kitchen runs daily until 10 p.m., with the bar open until 1 a.m. every night. For something a bit more sophisticated, Sora Lella in Newington and Sora Diana in Tollcross offer two distinct takes on vegan Roman cuisine. Family-run and deeply rooted in tradition, these sister restaurants serve antipasti, handmade pasta, and gorgeous cocktails with heart and heritage in every bite. They’re open Thursday through Sunday, with evening hours starting as early as 4 p.m. on Fridays and noon on weekends.

Where to eat and drink: Edinburgh's gay bars

Edinburgh’s LGBTQ+ scene is as welcoming as it is eclectic, with most of the action centered in the city’s Pink Triangle. This area stretches from Broughton Street to the top of Leith Walk and offers everything from lively clubs to peaceful pints. Check out CC Blooms, named after Bette Midler’s character in Beaches, for dancing and mingling with locals. Right next door, Planet Bar keeps things buzzing with drag shows, karaoke, and a friendly and welcoming crowd. For something more low-key, The Regent Bar serves real ales, board games, and soft sofas that make you feel immediately at home.

Where to eat and drink: Caffeine fix

Edinburgh knows how to do coffee with character. My favorite find was Kafe Kweer, a sober, queer-run, cozy café that doubles as a community hub. I stopped in for a vegan brownie and oat flat white and ended up chatting with a local artist. In the Old Town, The Milkman is small but always buzzing, with big front windows perfect for people-watching. Their coffee is top-tier, and the pastry selection is dangerously good – think flaky croissants, gluten-free cakes, and hearty soups if you're stopping by for lunch. Nearby, Fortuna Coffee Bar serves strong brews and filling breakfasts with plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. It's bright, friendly, and best visited before their 3 p.m. close.

What to do: Explore Edinburgh's free attractions

Start your adventure along the Royal Mile, Edinburgh's most-visited street, stretching to a distance just a bit beyond its name at 1.12 miles long. Lined with whisky shops, historic closes (narrow alleyways once bustling with residents and traders), and local treasures, don't miss Tron Kirk, where a small market inside a 17th-century church offers unique knick-knacks and handcrafted goods. From there, wander into the Grassmarket, located directly below Edinburgh Castle, for a mix of independent boutiques, lively pubs, and cozy cafés. End your day with a golden-hour hike up Calton Hill or Arthur's Seat— – unset views from either are some of the best in the city. Down by the docks, Leith is a stylish, ever-evolving neighborhood worth exploring, even if you're not staying in the area. For another unique-to-Edinburgh vibe, stroll through Dean Village or explore the leafy streets and relaxed charm of the West End and Stockbridge. If you happen to be there on a Sunday, the Stockbridge Sunday Market brings together a fantastic mix of local vendors and street food – Churros Chocolates is a must if you’ve got a sweet tooth or just need a warm bite on a chilly day (they're gluten-free and vegan!). Oh, and if you're heading to the train station, don't be surprised to see the Balmoral Hotel clock running three minutes fast; it's been that way for decades, just to help travelers stay on time.

What to do: Edinburgh Castle

Perched atop Castle Rock – an extinct volcanic plug formed over 700 million years ago – Edinburgh Castle dominates the skyline and is unsurprisingly one of the city's most popular sights. It overlooks both the Old and New Towns and has long been a symbol of Scottish resilience. Inside, you'll find St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh's oldest surviving building, built in the early 12th century by King David I in memory of his mother, Queen Margaret. Just steps away is the Great Hall, completed in 1511 by James IV, once used for royal banquets, ceremonies, and state occasions. The castle spans nearly three hectares and includes 27 buildings, drawing over two million visitors a year, so expect to spend a couple of hours here exploring its storied past. And if you're so inclined, afternoon tea is served in the castle's elegant Tea Room, tucked away in Crown Square – an indulgent way to channel your inner queen!

What to do: Invisible Cities walking tour

One of the most memorable ways to experience any city is on foot, and in Edinburgh, joining a walking tour with Invisible Cities is highly recommended. Founded in 2016 by Zakia Moulaoui, this unique, award-winning social enterprise trains people affected by homelessness to become tour guides, offering them deeply personal, alternative perspectives on the cities they call home. I took their LGBTQ+ History tour and wandered beyond the postcard-perfect streets to uncover powerful, often overlooked stories. I learned many things, but what stuck out was the story of Dr. James Barry, a 19th-century army surgeon assigned female at birth who lived as a man, rose through military ranks, and performed one of the first successful C-sections. A movie has apparently been in the works, but frankly, it can’t come soon enough. Other Invisible Cities tours on offer include The Royal Mile, Crime and Punishment, Women of Edinburgh, and Innovators and Inventors of Edinburgh.

What to do: The Scotch Whisky Experience

Even if you’re not a whisky drinker, The Scotch Whisky Experience, a long-standing popular attraction at the top of the Royal Mile, offers one of Edinburgh’s most engaging whisky tours. You’ll learn how Scotch became the spirit of Scotland through immersive storytelling, advanced graphics, and even a scratch-and-sniff guide that brings the country’s whisky-producing regions to life. Tours are available in multiple languages, including ASL, and the Gold Tour, which I can't recommend enough, ends with a tasting tray of four distinct single malts. Best part? You get to keep the whisky glass as a keepsake. Even if you don’t typically drink whisky, the staff’s passion and knowledge make this an experience that lingers well beyond your final sip.

What to do: National Gallery of Scotland

Whenever I’m in a new city, I always carve out time for at least one museum or gallery visit, and in Edinburgh, the National Gallery of Scotland was a highlight. Open daily from 10 p.m. to 5 p.m., with free admission (though some exhibitions charge), it’s an easy and rewarding addition to your day. The gallery houses works by Vermeer, Rembrandt, Titian, and the Impressionists, but the newly reopened Scottish galleries stood out to me. Spanning art from the 1300s to the mid-20th century, it’s where I discovered the delicate detail of the Irish-born artist Phoebe Anna Traquair and the bold brushwork of the Glasgow Boys. Swing by the café afterward for a coffee with views over the gorgeous Princes Street Gardens.

What to do: Port of Leith Distillery

If you haven’t had your whisky-tasting fix while in Scotland, I can’t recommend Port of Leith Distillery enough. Set along the working docks of Leith, this soaring newcomer is the world’s tallest distillery. Standing nine stories high, it’s also the UK’s first vertical whisky distillery – an architectural feat that’s as functional as it is striking. They offer both 60- and 90-minute tours, but the longer one is absolutely the one to book. You’ll explore the impressive structure, taste five distinctive pours, fill your own miniature bottle to take home, and hear the inspiring story of two friends who founded the company while chasing a whisky-fueled dream. The bar and shop are well worth lingering in afterward – many do. Overall, the Distillery is another great reason to explore Leith. And if gin’s more your thing, ask about their first venture, Lind & Lime, which is crafted nearby.

What to do: Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh

As Edinburgh is the UK’s greenest city, it offers no shortage of green spaces to unwind, from its hilly public parks to its tucked-away gardens. But the crown jewel is the Royal Botanic Garden, just a mile from the city center. Founded in 1670, it spans 72 acres and houses one of the world’s most impressive living plant collections. Whether you’re a plant lover or just in need of a tranquil afternoon, it’s easy to get lost (in the best vacation vibey way) among its peaceful paths and glasshouses. Give yourself plenty of time to linger. With three on-site cafés ideal for people-watching and offering a thoughtful selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes, it's a relaxed and satisfying way to refuel before continuing your stroll.

What to do: The Royal Yacht Britannia

Tucked behind Ocean Terminal in Leith, The Royal Yacht Britannia is one of Edinburgh’s most reflective and impactful experiences. Commissioned in 1954 and retired from service in 1997, this vessel carried the British royal family on nearly 1,000 state visits. Queen Elizabeth II once said Edinburgh was a place she came for peace and quiet, and that feeling truly lingers here. The complimentary audio guide brings the yacht to life as you explore the Queen’s understated bedroom, the dining room, the laundry, the infirmary, crew cabins, and even the onboard garage. One detail that stays with you: all the clocks are stopped at 3:01, the exact time the Queen last stepped off. It’s a small thing, but it speaks volumes about the care and respect poured into preserving the yacht’s story. With its nautical grandeur, attention to detail, and endless photo ops, plan for at least 90 minutes onboard. Afterward, the Royal Deck Tea Room is a lovely place to pause – offering soups, sandwiches, teas, and coffee with relaxing harbor views.

Major annual events

Be sure to check local listings for the latest updates, but here are some of Edinburgh’s standout annual events to keep on your radar:

Scottish Vegan Festival (April): Whether you're plant-based or just veg-curious, the Scottish Vegan Festival is a wholesome day out at the Assembly Rooms. Expect food stalls galore, cooking demos, ethical fashion, cruelty-free beauty products, and talks that range from practical tips to big-picture activism.

Pride Edinburgh (June) is Scotland's longest-running celebration of the LGBTQ+ community, dating back to 1994. It's free, wonderfully grassroots, and deeply rooted in the city's progressive spirit. The main march typically kicks off from the Scottish Parliament, winding through Edinburgh's historic streets and ending in a joyful, music-filled celebration.

Edinburgh Festival Fringe (August) is easily one of the most renowned cultural events on the planet. Every August, the city comes to life with comedy, theatre, drag, cabaret, and just about every kind of experimental performance you can imagine (and some you probably can’t). The 2023 breakout Netflix series Baby Reindeer first debuted here, and it's just one of many shows that have gone on to make global waves. With over 3,000 shows staged across 300+ venues, it’s no surprise that Fringe is the largest arts festival in the world—and the third-largest ticketed event globally, right behind the Olympics and the World Cup. The entire city becomes a stage—pubs, parks, basements, churches—and the energy is chaotic in the best way possible, as Edinburgh’s population nearly doubles during the month-long creative takeover.

Edinburgh Winter Festivals (Late November–Early January): Edinburgh in winter is straight out of a snow globe. The Winter Festivals light up the city with festive markets, ice rinks, theatre shows, mulled wine, and twinkling lights strung across the Old Town. Come for the Christmas cheer, and stay for the unbeatable New Year's Eve street party, Hogmanay, complete with fireworks, music, and a whole lot of Scottish charm.

Other important information

Alcohol Consumption: The legal drinking age in Scotland is 18.

Cannabis Consumption: Cannabis remains illegal in Scotland.

Tipping Culture: Tipping in Edinburgh doesn’t carry the same sense of obligation as it does in the US, but it’s always appreciated. Most restaurants automatically include a service charge (typically around 10%), which is considered the tip—so there’s no need to add more unless you feel especially inclined. For taxis, it’s common to simply round up the fare.

Water Consumption: Tap water in Edinburgh is completely safe to drink and tastes pretty great.

Clothing and Weather: Scotland’s weather is famously unpredictable. Even in summer, it can shift from sunshine to drizzle in minutes. Layers are your best friend: pack a waterproof jacket, a sweater, and something wind resistant. Comfortable shoes are a must, especially if you're walking the cobbled streets of Old Town. And don’t forget an umbrella!

Transportation: While it can be hilly in parts, Edinburgh is a very walkable city, but for longer distances, the bus and tram systems are easy to use and well-connected. And while there’s no Lyft, Uber and local taxi apps like Free Now operate reliably in Edinburgh.