If you overheard only half a conversation about a place that
is known for its rich history, its proud heritage as a haven for master artists,
its willingness to welcome not only gay people but all cultures and religions,
you’d know it right away: Amsterdam. A visit to today’s Amsterdam
still presents a warm welcome and reveals a boom of development that in no way
disregards respect for 17th-century aesthetics. But art and design aren’t
the only ideals to which Amsterdam is dedicated. Yes, tolerance of people with
varying backgrounds remains a hallmark of this exuberant Dutch metropolis. And
as a lesbian or gay man, you’ll feel like you’ve returned to the
homeland.
I’ve explored the gay sides of New York, London, San
Francisco, and Los Angeles, but there was something quite different about being
gay in these cities. At times it felt almost like an affectation for the residents.
That might have been only because these places are magnets for younger generations
of gays who are in the process of finding themselves, and I was a foreign observer.
Still, this sense was prominently absent in Amsterdam. The people were just
people, no matter their nationality, ethnicity, or sexual orientation. I was
wowed. I was sold. I was at home away from home.
Leaving the airport for the city, I suspected that my taxi
driver had been sent by the tourism bureau when he began to speak so proudly
about his hometown. His straightforward--and I’d later learn vital--warning
that bicyclists in the city had the right of way, so I should take caution not
to step out in front of one that was speeding along. His shared historical trivia,
for example, that many of the oldest buildings weren’t actually leaning
toward the street because they’d sunk; they were built that way (because
Amsterdammers’ homes were taxed by the square foot, the stairwells were
all built quite narrow; thus large furnishings were hoisted by rope to upper
windows, and the buildings’ angled nature made this easier to maneuver).
His friendliness was not artificial, I’d realize as I met more residents.
It was simply their way of life.
But, of course, Utopia does not truly exist anywhere. The
Netherlands has probably received more than its fair share of bad press about
violence attributed to Islamic fundamentalist immigrants, so I arrived with
a bit of trepidation knowing certain facts: the murder in 2002 of a gay Dutch
politician who was running on a platform of curtailing immigration rights and
the murder in late 2004 of Dutch filmmaker Theo Van Gogh, who had made a film
that was critical of Muslim men’s treatment of women. And my trip actually
predated the April 2005 gay bashing of an American journalist and his boyfriend
who were tourists. These incidents have captured the horrified attention of
the world’s media because of Amsterdam’s reputation as a haven of
tolerance. In light of the rising tensions and the government’s warning
issued to gay travelers--come and visit but exercise caution--the overall atmosphere
on the city streets and alleyways during day and night gave me a sense of confidence
and safety. Just as in any city in the United States, if you behave responsibly
and stay aware of your surroundings, there’s no reason you should not
have a great trip.
The caveat is that you may have to be a bit more reserved,
as you would in many U.S. cities, and forgo the public kisses and hugs with
partners who are traveling with you--at least for the sake of trying to stay
as safe as possible. But Amsterdammers are doing their best to uphold their
city’s reputation for tolerance. On May 17, as part of the first International
Day Against Homophobia, several hundred gay people and their allies gathered
in a public square, just blocks from where the journalist and his partner were
beaten, to publicly hold hands and kiss, making the point that gays will not
be intimidated by violence. The Dutch are quite proud of their centuries-old
reputation for tolerance and acceptance, and with that unbeatable spirit, the
good will definitely outlive the bad.
Rembrant House, Nomads
If 17th-century art (think
Girl With a Pearl Earring
)
really floats your canal boat, 2006 is definitely the time to go. The entire
year will be a nationwide celebration of the 400th anniversary of the birth
of Rembrandt, one of the most renowned Dutch etchers and painters, and several
museums will hold events and exhibitions to highlight his work. And through
2008 a newly built wing at the Rijksmuseum will house the absolute crème
de la crème of the national museum’s treasures--all together for
the easiest viewing ever. If you want to see masterpieces but do not want to
spend hours finding them amid acres of museum space, this exhibit will fit right
into your timetable.
On the whole, though, Amsterdam will always be a treasure
to behold, with its famed canals (where you can board a canal boat and tour
and dine all night); its nearby flower fields; and, of course, its thriving
and ever-resilient gay culture. After all, the
Netherlands
was the first country, in 2001, to grant full same-sex marriage rights--not
just civil unions--to its citizens. So, go Dutch and show support for the many
tolerant Dutch who do support gay rights and gay life and their very proud gay
and lesbian compatriots.
ESSENTIALS
Accommodations
Amsterdam is so compact and easy to navigate on foot that
there is simply no bad location to stay; however, if you’re lucky enough
to find something near the historical Dam Square, in the centrally located Centrum
district, all of your excursions can easily radiate out from there. (Before
all numbers dial 011-31-20)
Expensive:
For the prime location
in the city, pick the upscale
NH
Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky
(Dam 9; 554-9111; $225-$600). Located
right on Dam Square, its central location gives you the best walking access
to…everything! And after a transatlantic flight, you’ll love the
oversize tub and the great water pressure. Also fairly centrally located are
the
Grand Sofitel
(Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197; 555-3111; $525-$1,900) and the
NH
Barbizon
(Prins Hendrikkade 59-72; 556-4564; $225-$550).
Moderate:
Aero Hotel
(Kerkstraat
45-49; 662-7728; $90-$125) is very gay-friendly with wi-fi Internet, a bar,
and a café on site. The Internet lounge at the very gay-friendly
Hotel
Amistad Amsterdam
(Kerkstraat 42; 624-8074; $75-$170) is open until
midnight and has some rooms with shared baths. The gay-owned
ITC
Hotel
(Prinsengracht 1051; 623-0230; $70-$165) is an 18th century
canal house with private or shared baths and a bar and lounge.
Inexpensive:
If you don’t mind shared baths in a small but clean establishment,
Hotel
Groenendael
(Nieuwendijk 15; 624-4822; $65-$95) is only five minutes’
travel from Centraal Station, the main rail depot, which connects to the international
airport.
Restaurants
You’ll find great cafés and quaint
restaurants all over the city. While many Americans might consider Dutch food
to be bland--the basics are minimally seasoned roasted or braised meets and
vegetables--trying several courses of small portions of the cuisine is a fun
and casual way to while away an early evening. Besides, if you get hungry for
something a bit more exotic, many ethnic groups have carried their native dishes
and styles of cooking with them when they immigrated, so you’ll find great
Indonesian, Thai, and Indian restaurants, among others. No trip to Amsterdam
would be perfect, though, without a trip to
Restaurant
d’ Vijff Vlieghen
, which translates to the
Five
Flies
(Spuistraat 294-302, entrance on Vlieghendesteeg I; 530-4060).
Named for one of the original owners and inhabitants of one of five adjoining
17th-century houses, this restaurant has nothing to do with flies. The houses,
broken into nine dining rooms, will give you all the ambience and rich atmosphere
of the Golden Age with their dark, rustic wood furnishings and beams--but you’ll
be feasting on New Dutch cuisine, the adaptation of old standbys into modern
gastronomic delights. Try to get to the Rembrandt Room, which is home to four
of the master’s original etchings. My light course of thinly sliced filet
of suckling pig with mousse of tomato and basil drizzled with syrup of matured
wine vinegar was followed by a course of filet of guinea fowl with poultry and
tarragon stuffing accompanied by veal gravy with mild mushrooms. For dessert:
bavarois of grilled pears on a layer of macaroons served with an almond tuile!
I still can’t forget it all! For an exotic, extremely fun atmosphere try
Nomads
(Rozengracht 133-I; 344-6401), which specializes in Western-influenced Arabian
foods such as hummus, roasted eggplant, or soft cheese dips; skewers of meat
and vegetables; and vegetable and couscous side dishes. Lounge with your friends
on the U-shaped banquettes and sip wine or a fancier cocktail until your meal--served
in large variety in about a dozen medium-size dishes--is carried out to you
on a gigantic tray. Feast can barely describe it. And don’t be shy when
the resident tattooist stops by to decorate any part of your body you wish in
an elaborate flourish. Even though he uses washable ink for the tattoos, you
won’t want yours to wash away.
Attractions
Known for a tradition of tolerance dating back
to the 15th century, the Netherlands has been home to masters of art and thought
who fled persecution from their fellow countrymen and the Roman Catholic Church
in their native lands. Amsterdam has no shortage of tours, attractions, and
museums filled with the masterpieces of art by Van Gogh, Rembrandt, and others;
craftsmanship such as diamond cutting and polishing, a skill carried to the
country by Jews who fled Spain and Portugal in the 16th century and that is
carried on to this day; and monuments to history, such as the
Homomonument
(in Westermarkt Square, in the Jordaan district, between Prinsengracht and Raaadhuisstraat),
built to honor the gay men who lost their lives in World War II and since, and
the
Anne Frank House
(Prinsengracht 263; 556-7100; 9 a.m.-7
p.m.). Some other highlights of the city:
Classic
Canal Charters
(Czaar Peterstraat 147; 421-0825);
Dutch
Resistance Museum
(Plantage Kerklaan 61; 620-2535; 10 a.m.-5 p.m.);
Jewish Historical Museum
(JD Meijerplein 2-4; 626-9945; 11
a.m.-5 p.m.);
Museum Het Rembrandthuis (Rembrandt House Museum)
(Jodenbreestraat 4; 520-0400; 10 a.m.-5 p.m.); the
National Monument
(Dam Square), which celebrates all Dutch World War II casualties;
Rijksmuseum
(Stadhouderskade 42; 674-7047; 9 a.m.-6 p.m.); and the
Van
Gogh Museum
(Paulus Potterstraat 7; 570-5200; 10 a.m.-6 p.m.).
Nightlife
You can find information on gay nightlife from
almost any corner in Amsterdam. As you walk around the city visit the
Pink
Point welcome center
(Westermarkt, Jordaan district; noon to 6
p.m.), located near the Homomonument, or
COC Club
, a queer
info coffee and tea shop where some gay groups meet (Rozenstraat 14, Jordaan
district, 626-3087); or stop into any of the gay bookstores, which are usually
flying rainbow flags, and pick up a copy of Gaymap. Two of the larger bookstores
are
Boehkandel Vrolijk
(Paleisstraat 135, near Dam Square; 623-5142), open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays,
till 5 p.m. on Saturdays, and till 1 p.m. on Sundays, and
Intermale
(Spuistraat 251-253; 625-0009), open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays and noon to
5 p.m. on Sundays. The city does not have one gay neighborhood but several clusterings
of gay businesses and clubs that cater to the different scenes, such as on Reguliersdwarsstraat,
located in the Kerkstraat district between the first and second of the the four
canals that horseshoe around the city center. This mainstream gay street, referred
to in gay circles simply as the Straat, is lined with gay-owned and gay-friendly
cafés, restaurants, and bars. But be sure to visit one of the aforementioned
bookstores to get advice on locating the ever-changing venues in the dance/club
scene, the leather bars, and the gay coffeehouses and cafés. And since
it will be rare to find an Amsterdam resident who doesn’t speak English,
just chat up the clerk for the lowdown on the current hot spot. Whatever you
do, though, don’t miss some of the famed nightlife--no matter what your
age, gender, or general party mood. For the guys, check out the famed
Cockring
(Warmoesstraat 96, 623-9604; 11 p.m. to 4 a.m., till 5 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays)
or the weekend cruisy
Exit
(Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 at Rembrandtplein, 625-8788; midnight to 4 a.m. on
Thursdays, till 5 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays). For the women, get over to
You II
(Amstel
178 at Wagenstraat; 421-0900; 10 p.m.-4 a.m. on Thursdays, till 5 a.m. Fridays
and Saturdays). You might end up needing a vacation to follow up your vacation,
but it’s unlikely you’ll be able to say you didn’t strike
up a new friendship or two while indulging in the full experiences of the gay
capital of Europe.
The information in this story was accurate at the time of publication. We suggest that you confirm all details directly with the establishments mentioned before making travel plans. Please feel free to e-mail us at
update@outtraveler.com
if you have any new information.
