EXCLUSIVE | Three Gay Days: Geneva Part Two

DAY 2: HISTORY LESSONS & RETAIL THERAPY
Delve into the history of Geneva by visiting Maison Tavel (rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre 6; +41-22-418-3700), where the entire house (the oldest in the city, constructed in 1303), from cellar to attic, is on display. The museum exhibits historical collections from Geneva dating from the Middle Ages to the mid-19th century. Then wander around the atmospheric cobblestones of the Old Town, perched atop the Right Bank.

During your exploration, munch on a "Popeye" cr?pe (spinach and cheese) at Caf?-Cr?perie Saint-Pierre (6 place de la Taconnerie; +41-22-310-0976; cr?pes from 7 CHF) in the shadow of St. Pierre Cathedral.

Then it's on to more important things: shopping. Confused about which most-famous and glamorous watchmaker to visit first? Start with the oldest, Vacheron-Constantin (rue des Moulin, 1; +41-22-316-1740), which has been in continuous production since 1755 and has a tiny museum above the shop showcasing some fantastic pieces. Then work your way to the newest (some say hottest) name in the watch biz Franck Muller (rue de la Tour-de-l'Ile 1; +41-22-818-0030), whose exclusive Russian and Saudi clients -- among others -- love his innovative designs.

Last -- and clearly most important -- chocolate. La Bonbonni?re (rue de Rive 11; +41-22-311-6196) is a classic chocolate shop while Rohr (Place du Molard 3; +41-22-311-6303; www.chocolat-rohr.ch) is small but has plenty to salivate over.

For dinner with a gay ambience, try the French fare at the upscale Le Nid'poule (rue Adrien-Lachenal 26; +41-22-735-5949; closed Sat-Sun and July, prix-fixe dinner menus: 39 CHF) touted as "the most Genevan gay restaurant," then head to Nathan (6 rue Baudit; +41-22-733-7876) for a mellower drink than the previous night. This comfortable, chatty lesbian and gay bar/caf? features small tables under curtains and a very local (read: untouristy) vibe.

Part One | Part Two | Part Three