Out Road Trip: What’s a Chef Like You Doing in a Place Like This?

Image courtesy of Peekamoose Restaurant

Big Indian, NY is one of the last places I’d expect to find
a chef who’s come up through Le Bernadin and Gramercy Tavern. But just one spoonful
of chef Devin Mills’ almond-cucumber gazpacho shows his exceptional culinary
pedigree.

I would bathe in this soup. And then lick myself clean.

And after a full tasting menu at Mills' Peekamoose Restaurant (including
braised short ribs, compressed watermelon, and some of the best chocolate ice
cream I’ve ever tasted), I nearly had to roll home. And it's not just tasty, Peekamoose is purdy too.

Louise Nevelson
inspired wall made from the trash that was in the building when Devin and
Marybeth Mills bought Peekamoose nine years ago.

Jason put it best when he said the thing that both The Roxbury Motel and Peekamoose have in common:
everything seems considered. Every detail is chosen specifically for being what it is. Even if you don't agree with all the choices, you can see the thought and work that went into them. I mean, check out this breakfast nook: