With 40% of the country's haul coming from tiny Klädesholmen on the windswept tip of Tjörn Island, roughly an hour?s drive north of Gothenburg, herring is the menu at Salt & Sill (471 51 Klädesholmen, +46-(0)304-67-34-80; SaltOSill.se). Sill means herring, and here, they have it in all varieties, both sweet and sour.
There's blackcurrant, fennel and schnapps, black pepper, mustard, and herring tartar, to name a few. The Midsummer smorgasbord includes swordfish, three types of lox, cured meats, and lentil salad with boiled new potatoes. It's rounded out with seasonal offerings and a warm berry crumble doused in vanilla sauce to finish.
Not a fish person? A crisp glass of white paired with Salt and Sill's postcard-worthy vistas of the Bohuslän?s outer archipelago is sustenance of a spiritual kind.
Salt & Sill was so popular, it expanded to incorporate Sweden's first and only floating hotel next door. Located on the Skagerrak, a strait running between Norway and Sweden and Denmark's Jutland, it also has private moorings for yachts. Its six, two-story black, wood-paneled cubes contain 23 rooms and offer ample sundecks, a suite with private rooftop hot-tub, and subtle waves to rock you to sleep.
Bathers can also book the SS Silla, a sauna-cum-catamaran that speeds for archipelago tours as you schvitz.