When you picture the French countryside you’re probably imagining Burgundy. Sweeping fields of green, hillocks dotted with stone fortresses, and placid rivulets befitting a lily-dotted Monet. It’s the rural France of the tourist brochures, and feels like some sort of fairy tale combustion between Robin Hood’s forest and the Beauty and the Beast’s “little town.”
Spring in Burgundy is a particularly magical time to visit – the grass always seems dewy and the blooming rapeseed splashes radiant bursts of yellow across the otherwise beige-and-green landscape. A springtime visit also promises much more personal time with the region’s main attractions before the legions of tourists file through in the height of summer. The area, though bucolic, is considerably compact, making it a great place to explore by bike.
Over the course of the week we’re laying out a Day-by-Day travel planner of the best things to see, and best places to stop on a cycling tour of what the New York Times called one of the world’s must-see destinations in 2015. This tailor-made trail ensures that you get the best of what Burgundy has to offer: canal-side views, forest-y rambles, crumbling castles, and a generous smattering of good food and wine.
Day 3
Departing Saulieu in the morning, you’ll travel along the Grande Traversée du Morvan. The regional tourism board has marked a scenic trail for bikers within the park, making the journey as stress free as following the waterway during the two days prior. As the crow flies, you’re about 25km from your resting spot for the day, but the twists and turns of the park will have you clocking in at about double if you so choose. Tuck into L’Esperance, a stunning property in the township of Saint-Père for the evening.
(Saulieu to Saint-Père via the Grande Traversée du Morvan: 50km/30miles).
Points of Interest
L’Esperance
The perfect partnership of adorable accommodations and excellent food, Marc Meneau’s Esperance sits in the valley just beyond Vézelay. Rooms are spread across three buildings – go for the suites in the old mill, which have oodles of farmstead charm. The two-star Michelin dining room has an interesting collection of modern art adorning the walls, and an area dedicated to the late Serge Gainsbourg who spent a lot of time on the property. Meneau stands out not only for his affable nature but because he has long championed the farm-to-table movement, growing much of his produce on his own land.
