Going to Town in Hawaii
The interior backdrop of Town.
Photo (1): A. Randhawa
Story by Aefa Mulholland
After a day exploring the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii I really went to Town that night. I would have gone Downtown(Town’s sister restaurant at the Hawaii State Art Museum), but Downtown is only open for lunch and Saturday brunch.
Town is a laidback neighborhood bistro in hip Kaimuki, a good bit off the tourist beat, but worth every inch of the detour. I was struck by Ed Kenney and David Caldiero’s passion for using organic and local produce and by their commitment to recycling.
Old menus become coasters; used oils and kitchen waste are composted or recycled; and the islands are scoured for local produce, with the best being flown in and dashed right to Kenney and Caldiero’s kitchen.
The former garage serves up unpretentious, mouthwatering fusion fare. Particular highlights were the Kabocha Risotto, sumptuous moi – once the fish most favored by Hawaiian royals, grapefruit-Campari sorbet, and the delicious Lemonade Drop (made with Absolut Citron, fresh lemon, Nalo Mel honey and herb fruit juice).
If you’re in Honolulu, go to Town or Downtown, or even better, go to both.